#14
Sarah’s Guest Story | Exploring Svalbard with Secret Atlas

I first visited the Svalbard archipelago almost 15 years ago. Since then, so much has changed: ships are larger and more numerous; wilderness areas are increasingly accessible; and a changing climate is altering the landscape and animal behaviour.

What remains the same is the sheer beauty of the place – the spiky snow-capped mountains, never-ending valleys, and skies that shift between a palette of pastel pinks and icy blues. The possibility of finding foxes, reindeer, walrus, and – of course – polar bears brings me back again and again.

Zodiac Cruise in Svalbard

A recent May voyage with Secret Atlas reminded me why I first fell in love with Svalbard. Every day was an adventure, ducking into remote bays and scouring ice floes for signs of life. With only 12 guests, we could change plans with minimum fuss, moving silently through waters without disturbing the sense of solitude that makes the polar regions so special.

Guides John and Mette are veterans of the ice with decades of experience between them. Their expertise, careful judgements, and colourful storytelling made this a true expedition in an industry where that word has been criminally diluted and overused.

Having seen, heard, and sensed so many new things, I ended the trip knowing we’d made the most of every opportunity. The only thing missing was Sir David Attenborough’s soothing voice narrating scenes that would easily have made the director’s cut.

As a writer and photographer, I left feeling inspired, invigorated, and reassured by the knowledge there are people who treat this fragile environment responsibly.

I honestly don’t think there could be a better way to explore and respect one of my favourite places on Earth.