The Transantarctic Mountains | The Ancient Mountains That Divide Antarctica in Two

By Sophie Dingwall
An aerial view of Antarctica's Transantarctic Mountain Range in Antarctica Shutterstock Secret Atlas

The Transantarctic Mountains stand as one of Antarctica’s great geological puzzles — a vast, ancient range that cuts across the frozen continent. Much of the range remains buried beneath the Antarctic Ice Sheet, preserving secrets that scientists are still working to uncover.

Antarctica Transantarctic mountains as seen from the air Shutterstock Secret Atlas

From discovery to South Pole: the first expeditions across the Transantarctic Mountains 

During his Antarctic expedition in 1841, Captain James Clark Ross was the first to observe the Transantarctic Mountains. Since their discovery, this formidable mountain range has been a solid barrier that later-day Antarctic explorers had to overcome.

Ernest Shackleton discovered the Beardmore glacier during the Nimrod Expedition in 1908. While attempting to reach the South Pole, he climbed the glacier and was the first person to set foot on the continental polar plateau.

While Shackleton had to turn back when he was around 180.6 kilometres from the South Pole, Captain Robert Scott followed the route across the Beardmore Glacier to reach the South Pole in 1911-12.

It is well known that Roald Amundsen won the race to the South Pole, beating Captain Scott by a margin of 35 days. Amundsen crossed the Transantarctic Mountains by traversing the Axel Heiberg glacier. He named it after Consul Axel Heiberg, a Norwegian who contributed generously to polar expeditions.

Competing theories behind the mountain range’s formation

There are multiple theories explaining the origin of this massive mountain range. Even so, the exact reasons behind their origin remain a much-debated topic. In truth, conducting research in this area is difficult due to its remote location and the thick layer of ice sheet that buries these mountains.

Some geologists consider a flexure model that suggests an interaction between East and West Antarctica geological plates, divided by the West Antarctic rift system. East Antarctica is considered to be a craton, which is a continental shield composed of ancient rock. 

On the other hand, West Antarctica is a continental rift system that was formed during the breakup of Gondwana around 180 million years ago. The mountains lie at the edge of these two systems, and the rift system is pushing the edge of East Antarctica upward.

Another theory suggests that the mountain ranges did not form through the geology of compression. There is a root system of crustal rock floating on Earth’s hot mantle that pushes up the mountains through the forces of thermal buoyancy. 

As per a third hypothesis, these mountains are a remnant of a huge Antarctic plateau that eroded away and got covered by ice in subsequent periods.

ice sheet an aerial view of antarctica's transantarctic mountain range shutterstock secret atlas

It remains unclear how these organisms survived these thick layers of ice that covered Antarctica. Moreover, the rocks and soils of Antarctica remain exposed to atmospheric nitrogen for centuries. Since there are no native plants to use this nitrogen, it builds up to toxic levels. This proves that these organisms have evolved significantly to survive such harsh conditions.

Scientists are still decoding how the genetic structure of these organisms mutated with the ebb and flow of the Antarctic ice sheets. The Transantarctic Mountain Range is like a natural laboratory, and soil samples collected from here can provide answers to these questions.

How to access the Transantarctic Mountains

The Transantarctic Mountains ranges have some fascinating vistas, like the dry valleys and the snow-capped Royal Society Range. However, the core area does not come under the common tourist destinations in Antarctica

Note that there are no permanent stations or structures in the Trans-Antarctic Mountains ecoregion. Scientific expeditions visit the mountain range by aircraft or helicopter and set up field camps. Occasional adventure tourism activities are conducted in the South Pole region, and tourists cross the mountain range by taking a chartered flight from the McMurdo Station

One of the best ways to observe these mountains is from a ship on the Ross Sea. The Admiralty and Victory range of peaks rise spectacularly from the sea, and the glaciers flowing down from them create a majestic view. However, the sea remains blocked by seasonal ice for most months of the year, except for a short window in late summer.

Visiting the area not only requires mountaineering experience and equipment, but also a high level of planning and preparation to overcome the logistical challenges. The best way to approach this is by participating in a specially organised expedition.

Antarctic as seen from the air Shutterstock Secret Atlas

Why the Transantarctic Mountains are difficult to access

The main stretch of the Transantarctic Mountains is located in the cold and barren heartland of Antarctica and rises above 4,000 metres in altitude. The extreme weather conditions and high wind speeds make the area inaccessible for most months of the year. 

The harsh terrain is an interplay of ice, rock, and fierce winds, discouraging any attempt to explore the peaks. Besides, the complete lack of infrastructure and weather uncertainties make handling emergencies an extremely challenging task.

Then again, the potential impacts of human activity on the fragile ecosystems of the region remain unknown. This makes conservation activities important in the area. 

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Life beneath the ice: surviving extreme conditions

Beyond their geological significance, the Transantarctic Mountains also host some of the most resilient forms of life on the continent, surviving in the extreme conditions beneath the ice.

The evolution of organisms that still survive in the harsh windswept slopes of these mountains also raises questions for biologists. The rocks and soil around the mountains contain fragile ecosystems of microscopic life and even small invertebrates like springtails.

It is estimated that they evolved on the continent around 180 million years ago when the climate was close to temperate. The 4-kilometre-thick ice sheet that covers these mountains started developing at a later stage, around 30 million years ago.

Springtail on a rock in Antarctica

When the Transantarctic Mountains experience the most tolerable climate

The average temperatures around the Transantarctic range are around -10°C during the summer months and -60°C in the winter. Fierce katabatic winds flowing down the slopes can reach speeds of over 200 km/h. The resulting wind chill factor makes the environment lethally cold.

The best period for visiting these mountains is during the Antarctic summer, between late November and early March. During the summer months, the region experiences near-constant daylight, making this the best period for photographers and explorers.

Wildlife and plants around the Transantarctic Mountains

Since the central range of the mountains is located in a barren desert, the wildlife is almost nonexistent. Bacteria, lichens, fungi, and algae are the most common biological species that are found. Other forms of microscopic life, like rotifers, tardigrades, and nematodes, are found as well.

Wildlife is more abundant in the coastal areas where the mountain ranges meet the sea. The Ross Sea is the world’s largest marine protected area. Antarctic seals, Adélie penguins, emperor penguins, and a variety of other birds are found in the area. The waters around the Ross Sea are also great for whale watching, especially the killer whale.

Adelie penguin on drift ice in the Ross Sea Antarctica Shutterstock Secret Atlas
Adelie penguin on drift ice in the Ross Sea
cold snow desert lifeless snowy landscape with blizzard Antarctica Shutterstock Secret Atlas

What to know about the Transantarctic Mountain range

Geographically, the Transantarctic Mountain chain runs between the Ross Sea and the Weddell Sea and acts as a barrier that separates East and West Antarctica. With a total length of around 3,500 kilometres, it is the 4th longest above-water mountain range on the planet. The width of the range varies between 100–300 kilometres, and the highest point, Mount Kirkpatrick, has an altitude of 4,528 metres.

A view of Transantarctic Mountains Shutterstock Secret Atlas
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