The Alkefjellet Bird Cliffs | Svalbard's Living Walls

These towering cliffs rise from the icy waters of Hinlopen Strait like a medieval fortress, their dark walls alive with tens of thousands of seabirds. 

They're not just any bird cliffs – they're the most famous Svalbard bird cliffs, stretching several kilometres along Spitsbergen's northeastern coast.

Think of a 100-metre-high wall of black rock, split into massive columns by ancient geological forces. Now picture every available ledge packed with chattering birds, their calls echoing across the water. It's no wonder these cliffs made it into the opening sequence of BBC's Frozen Planet.

The geology of Alkefjellet

The cliffs themselves tell a story millions of years old. They formed during the Jurassic or early Cretaceous period when molten rock pushed up through layers of limestone. This created what geologists call a doleritic intrusion – basically, a sheet of dark, crystalline rock that cooled underground and was later exposed by erosion.

What makes these cliffs especially striking is their columnar structure. While not as geometrically perfect as some basalt formations, they've weathered into dramatic towers and buttresses. Some stand like free-standing pillars, creating natural channels where small boats can pass between them and the main cliff face.

When summer brings warmer temperatures, meltwater from the nearby Odinjøkulen ice cap creates ephemeral waterfalls that pour down the dark rock faces. The contrast between the white water and black rock adds another layer to the already dramatic scene.

Understanding the wildlife at Alkefjellet

The birds

The real stars are the birds of Svalbard. The Brünnich's guillemots – about 60,000 breeding pairs call these cliffs home during summer months. They're not alone though. 

The bird cliffs at Alkefjellet are like prime real estate. The vertical cliffs with tiny ledges are the most popular 'housing' for the guillemots as they offer the best protection against predators. The Brünnich's guillemots lay their eggs in this little ledge. The eggs are pyriform (pear-shaped), making it less likely to roll off the cliffs. 

Once the chicks hatch, they instinctively know to stay very still on the cliff's edge until they are ready to jump off and head to the sea when they are about 20–21 days old. Once the chicks jump (or are being pushed by the parents), they head to the sea with usually the male parent until they learn to feed and fly.

The cliffs get especially busy during the breeding season. Parents constantly fly back and forth from fishing grounds, bringing meals to their chicks. The noise and activity can be overwhelming – imagine thousands of birds calling, flying, diving, and squabbling over prime nesting spots.

Other wildlife

The bird cliffs of Alkefjellet support more than just aerial life. Arctic foxes patrol the gentler slopes between the vertical cliffs and the glacier, hunting for fallen chicks or eggs. In the waters below, you might spot bearded or ringed seals, and the rich marine life that attracts so many seabirds also draws whales to the area.

Bird cliffs are a big attraction to polar bears too. While birds seem tiny as a food source, there are plenty of them at a time when polar bears struggle to catch seals (they catch them on the sea ice, which is melted by the summer). Polar bears have been known to even climb the cliffs so look out not just for birds and Arctic foxes but also polar bears while watching the cliffs.

Experience the wildlife of Svalbard with Secret Atlas

Secret Atlas offers summer expeditions to Alkefjellet as part of our Svalbard Expedition Micro Cruise. The timing is crucial – spring ice makes the Hinlopen Strait impassable, but summer opens up these waters for exploration. Our small ships carry just 12 guests, allowing for intimate wildlife encounters without overwhelming the environment.

Beyond Alkefjellet, these expeditions visit other Svalbard highlights like:

• Torellneset's walrus colonies

• The massive ice cliffs of Bråsvellbreen

• Remote fjords where polar bears roam

• Historic trapping sites and research stations

The benefits of a small ship

Getting close to these cliffs is an unforgettable experience, and small expedition vessels offer the best vantage point. With just 12 guests aboard, everyone gets a perfect view as you approach Alkefjellet. 

You'll first hear the colony – thousands of bird calls echoing off the dark rock. Then the full scale of the cliffs reveals itself, making you feel tiny in comparison to these towering walls.

The waters near the steepest sections are surprisingly deep, allowing ships to navigate quite close to the cliff base. 

From here, you'll see guillemots diving into the sea, their black and white bodies streaking through the clear Arctic water. Some birds rest on the surface in large rafts, while others zoom past at eye level, heading back to their nests with fish.

Early morning visits often provide the most dramatic scenes. Sometimes mist clings to the cliff tops while the low Arctic sun illuminates the water. You might see rays of light cutting through the mist as guillemots stream out from their nesting ledges. 

Even in grey weather, the cliffs impress – the dark rock contrasting with the birds' white breasts creates a natural spectacle that photographers particularly love.

The advantage of travelling with a small group becomes clear here. We visit the bird cliffs with the zodiacs, it allows us to get as close as possible (while remaining safe) to the cliffs.  

Your expedition guides have time to share their knowledge with each guest, pointing out interesting behaviours and answering questions. You're not rushed or crowded – just 12 people sharing an extraordinary Arctic moment.