Pyramiden | Inside Svalbard’s Soviet Ghost Town at the Edge of the Arctic

While a journey to Svalbard allows you to witness the stunning beauty of the Arctic, a ghost town that seems straight out of a spy movie is not something you expect to see. However, the abandoned mining settlement of Pyramiden is a town that gives you a unique insight into the Soviet era of the last century. 

The rise and fall of Pyramiden is a fascinating chapter in Svalbard's history, making it a special destination in the region.

Meaning behind Pyramiden

The literal meaning of the word Pyramiden is 'The Pyramid', which originates from a triangular snow-covered mountain in the Svalbard archipelago. The town lies in a valley on the island of Spitsbergen, and the peak forms a distinct backdrop to it. On the south, you can view the massive Nordenskiöld glacier across the Billefjorden.

Establishment of Pyramiden by Sweden in 1910

Coal was discovered in Pyramiden by the Swedes in 1910, but the mining activities were never large-scale. In that period, Spitsbergen —the erstwhile name of Svalbard— was considered an international territory. More correctly, as terra nullius or a no-man’s land. Only after the Svalbard Treaty came into effect in 1925 did Norway gain full sovereignty over Svalbard.

However, the treaty gave the right to the signatory parties and countries to access the region and exploit its natural resources. This includes the ‘right to fish, hunt or undertake any kind of maritime, industrial, mining or trade activity.’

The conditions in the treaty allowed Sweden to sell Pyramiden to the former Soviet Union, which was a signatory to the treaty, in 1927. In addition, the Soviet Union also bought another coal-mining town, Barentsburg, in the region. Both mines were operated by Trust Arktikugol, a Soviet state-owned mining company. 

However, full-scale mining began only after World War II. Not to forget, Longyearbyen, Barentsburg, and Grumant were completely burnt down by German battleships Tirpitz and Scharnhorst during the operation 'Zitronella' in September 1943. Pyramiden survived only because the ice conditions in 1943 had been too tough so ships could not enter Billefjord and reach the settlement.

As the mining activities continued between 1950 and 1980, the coal was transported to mainland Russia via coal shipments. One estimate suggests that the total amount of coal mined between 1955 and 1998 was around 9 million tonnes. Pyramiden and Barentsburg were among the very few global outlets of the Soviet Union beyond the shroud of the ‘Iron Curtain’. 

Between 1970 and 1980, mining was at its peak, and the number of Russian residents in Pyramiden was around 1,000. 

Pyramiden had the highest standard of living among all the towns in the Arctic region in that era. It had schools, a hospital, a cinema, music studios, and even a saltwater swimming pool. The Soviet-style apartments in the town made it look similar to towns in the Russian mainland.

In fact, the facilities available in Pyramiden in that period were better than what the Russian miners used to get in their own villages. For many, the town was like a utopian society in the remote Arctic.

Besides, Pyramiden is located deep inside Billefjord, around 100 kilometres from the open ocean. Accessing the open waters through a terrain that remained frozen for more than half of the year was a big challenge. On the other hand, Barentsburg had an ice-free port that provided year-round access. Barentsburg also had a Russian consulate, which made it a more politically viable option.

While it remained a Russian town, Pyramiden stood deserted till 2008. After that, plans were made to revive the town and transform it into a tourist destination.

Best time to visit Pyramiden

The best time to explore this ghost town is during the late summer. In the period between July and August, the landscape is mostly free of ice. This is also the period when the weather remains moderate and the ‘midnight sun’ offers 24 hours of daylight. This makes it the perfect period for photographing the ghost town and its stunning surroundings.

In winter, sea ice typically blocks access by boat, making visit difficult. However, late winter (February and March) are a good time to visit if you want to view the Northern Lights and are up for a multi-day snow mobile tour.

How you can access Pyramiden 

During the midsummer period, Pyramiden is best visited on a ship or boat. It can be included in the itinerary of a Svalbard cruise trip, or you can consider a day trip. Boat services to Pyramiden are available from Longyearbyen in Svalbard. Remember, all trips to Pyramiden are part of a guided tour.

The more adventurous option is to reach Pyramiden by choosing a snowmobile ride across the frozen valleys. This journey can take 8-10 hours and passes through the fascinating wilderness of the Arctic and close to the massive ice walls of the Nordenskiöld Glacier. Generally, this is a 3-day trip where you spend two nights in Pyramiden. 

(Please note that, due to the ongoing war in Ukraine, most tour operators are currently not offering travel to or accommodation in the Russian-owned settlements of Barentsburg and Pyramiden.)

Wildlife near Pyramiden

Among 30 bird species that breed in Spitsbergen, quite a few are found in the area around Pyramiden. These include the little auk, Northern fulmar, kittiwake, grey phalarope, gulls, and skuas. 

Other animals seen here include polar bears, walruses, Svalbard reindeer, and arctic foxes. The whale species found around Pyramiden include the beluga whales, minke whales, fin whales, and the blue whale.

With the signs of civilisation all around you, Pyramiden may seem far from the Arctic wilderness at first glance. But nothing can be far from the truth. The chances of a polar bear encounter are high in the area around the town.

The guides residing in the town carry rifles as protection against polar bears, and visitors are not allowed to explore the town on their own. You may hear stories of polar bears breaking into the building where the guides live.

Photography in Pyramiden

Today, only two of the buildings in Pyramiden remain functional. These are a hotel and the cultural centre. A skeleton crew of workers, employed by Arktikugol, remain here as maintenance and hospitality staff. Keep in mind that there is no internet service or television in the town, and the hotel bookings are done through a satellite phone.

Since nothing from the mining era has been destroyed, Pyramiden is the perfect spot to photograph the nostalgia of the Soviet era. The cold environment of the Arctic and the permafrost covering the ground prevented the wood and brick buildings from weathering away. 

You can follow the guide to the cafeteria and the recreation centres to get a feel of life during the mining era. Just outside the recreation centre is one of the iconic landmarks from the past era - the northernmost statue of Lenin. The grass growing around the statue was imported from Siberia.

To capture a zone frozen in time, point the camera at the interior of the buildings. Calendars from the past hang inside the administrative buildings, and the classrooms have children's drawings on the walls. It is only inside the only hotel in town - Hotel Tulip - that signs of life are visible. Here, you can enjoy a drink of Russian vodka and observe objects from the soviet era, like the telephones. 

Exploring Pyramiden with Secret Atlas

Please note: while Secret Atlas does not currently land at Pyramiden, Zodiac cruises in the surrounding bay - Billefjorden may be offered, if conditions are favourable — particularly if belugas are swimming nearby.