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The Expedition That Founded Secret Atlas

A small ship voyage exploring the depths of East Greenland sparked the creation of Secret Atlas. Discover the captivating story of passion and perseverance as co-founders Andy Marsh and Michele D'Agostino recount how their journey began… 

Introduction

Andy and Michele met by chance whilst sailing to Scoresbysund. It was an adventure – and a meeting – that would steer their lives in an entirely new direction and mark the beginning of Secret Atlas. And one they would still be talking about with passion and vividness some half a decade later.

Andy and Michele led vastly different lives and lived in different countries. Andy ran a video production company specialising in travel and was a passionate explorer of remote places, with previous trips sailing to South Georgia and Antarctica. 

Meanwhile, Michele, an Italian living in London, worked as an executive in online advertising. He had previously worked in sports marketing, event management, and professional sailing.

But the pair shared a profound commonality – they yearned to explore the world's most remote locations.

Those of you who have followed adventure stories from past great explorers will likely have heard of Bill Tilman, an army major and avid explorer. 

After reading about Tilman's many valiant attempts to reach Scoresbysund in Greenland, a seed of curiosity was planted in twelve-year-old Michele's head. Over the years, his interest in high latitudes increased. He was sure he too would one day reach Scoresbysund, one of Greenland's most isolated destinations. 

Andy had already started his polar adventures, completing a voyage on board a tall ship to Antarctica and South Georgia. Upon his return, he struggled to adjust to everyday life in the UK. The heightened experience that the Antarctic delivered set the precedent and normality left a void, feeling dulled by the mediocre existence his home now offered. 

These two strangers simultaneously searched for an opportunity to explore Greenland, to fill the void. As fate would have it, their paths crossed when they stumbled across a sailing yacht looking for crew. Neither wasted any time in committing to the adventure that lay before them.

Scoresbysund

Scoresbysund is about as remote as it gets. Andy and Michele were aware that, once they left the safety of civilisation and entered the true wilderness, they would be reliant entirely upon themselves. Yet the exigent urge to explore harder-to-reach, more isolated locations fuelled the pair’s desires.

Andy, an experienced sailor, says, "It's always been a sort of fantasy destination for all seafarers." 

This secluded spot is rarely accessible, and reaching it is an achievement in itself. The Denmark Strait, which one must navigate to reach Scoresbysund, is renowned for its notoriously harsh conditions, which many have fallen victim to in the past.

Despite the technology available today, the waters still pose a serious threat to those who venture into them, largely due to the unforgiving low depression systems that regularly hit the region. 

In addition, the Greenland icecap forms colossal glaciers, which often dump enormous chunks of ice into the strong currents which travel through Scoresbysund, making navigation particularly treacherous. 

It's fair to say, meticulous planning and a considerable amount of patience are required to reach such a destination, as even some of the most experienced have lost the battle with nature here.

The voyage to Greenland begins…

Andy and Michele eagerly departed the Isle of Wight and set course for East Greenland. It had been a long time coming for them both, and it was a long, long journey. The 40-day voyage would see them stop at the Faroe Islands and Iceland before reaching their final destination. 

The 54-ft sailing yacht was their home now, and the pair barely fit in the cramped cabin. The low ceiling and pipe cot bunks made it hard to manoeuvre, and what little floor space they had was occupied by drones, cameras, ice picks, and other material necessary for the voyage. This confinement was, without a doubt, sure to test their endurance and patience. 

After a long period of time at sea with no incidents to report, Andy and Michele were surprised to bump into avid sailor Mike Henderson, moored up on the same dock as them in Iceland – he too was planning to reach Scoresbysund.

Mike had written a cruising guide to Greenland; if they were to take advice from anyone, he was a solid choice. 

"Guys, you're lucky!” he told them. “We have the best conditions this year to reach Scoresbysund."

Many explorers exhaust weeks, months, or even years of their lives trying to reach Scoresbysund. By chance, Andy and Michele had timed it perfectly. The weather looked promising, there wasn't a lot of wind forecast, and the ice charts were in their favour. Cautious not to lose their window, they set sail. “It was finally happening,” says Andy. 

Gazing over the stern of the yacht, they watched as Iceland merged into one with the sea and sky until finally disappearing entirely. It was this moment that made it all real. 

The voyage was smooth, there were no howling winds or treacherous seas to speak of… the sailing was quite pleasant, in fact, despite a heavy fog which lay with them for hours, blinding their route onward. "It was the kind of fog where you can't see past the end of the boat," recalls Andy. 

As the fog lifted, tubular icebergs the size of football stadiums revealed themselves. Unlike other landscapes, the uninterrupted vastness of Greenland can be incredibly deceptive, leading one to believe things are much closer and smaller than they really are. 

Andy explains, "Everything's so big, you've got no frame of reference; the mountains are so high, but you've got no buildings to compare them to, so your sense of perspective is distorted."

Around a hundred miles from Greenland, the vast landmass came into sight. It was the middle of the night by the time they docked, but the ever-present sunlight meant there was no darkness. Days and time had no place. 

"It was too easy. We didn't deserve it," says Michele. The voyage was a true testament to the diverse conditions nature provides. After a lifetime of reading tragic tales and treacherous endeavours, their uneventful voyage left mixed feelings of disappointment, gratitude, relief, and excitement for what lay ahead. For the exploration had only just begun. 

Exploring East Greenland

The serene stillness of the glasslike water was irresistible. They paddled out quietly on their kayaks, so as not to disturb the silence that was strangely deafening. 

Andy says, "When I got that close to the icebergs, I really felt like I was absorbed into nature. It's an area of outstanding natural beauty; there's very dramatic scenery – from the sheer cliffs standing thousands of metres high, to the vastness of the fjords."

"We only really started to experience Greenland fully when we stepped ashore," says Michele. 

They first visited the truly tiny settlement of Ittoqqortoormiit. Colourful wooden houses dotted the coastline, and the local people (all 350 or so of them) are well known to wholeheartedly welcome pioneering travellers. Often they are equally inquisitive of the visitors, for they don't see many when the town is encapsulated by ice for around nine months of the year. 

The town has the basics: a small shop, a church, and a pub which opens one night a week. Goods are delivered just twice a year – once in July and once in August.

It could be argued that there is little to do here for the villagers, but the people live a different way of life in comparison to many communities. Intertwined with the seasons, they lead a slower life at one with nature – something very few of us experience today or even know how to do. 

Michele says, "Culturally, it was one of the most interesting encounters with other people in my life. The locals are fascinated by who you are and why you've come. They don't get many visitors, unlike other parts of Greenland where there are airports."

The distant snow-capped peaks were calling to Andy and Michele. They didn't look too far to reach, maybe a couple of hours – or so they thought. But the rolling hilltops and undulating terrain seemed to stretch on for eternity. Each crest revealed yet another ascent. And another. And another…

"We headed towards a peak that overlooks the glaciers, and we were having bets about how long it would take to get to the top of it. I bet two hours, the other guys said four. But it took almost 10 hours to get to the top," recalls Andy. 

Each corner brought a new view, something different. They'd been walking for hours over boggy ground when, reaching the top of a ridge, the texture underfoot changed. Aghast, they touched the ground beneath them. They needed to confirm what they were seeing was true. 

At a staggering elevation of eight hundred metres, they stood on top of a ridge, gazing down upon what could only be described as a sandy Caribbean beach.

Michele describes that moment. "That's when you realise that not a lot of people come here. I took a moment to listen, to breathe. I can only describe it as a very freeing feeling."  

Greenland is a testament to the relationships humanity can achieve with the wilderness. Living in such a harsh environment, its inhabitants deserve immense respect. Its beauty and complexity are a constant reminder of the importance of diversity in our ecosystem.

Back home: Secret Atlas is born

Like a flash, it was over. 

Andy and Michele’s journey was re-lived through storytelling to family and friends back home. But this wasn’t enough. 

Andy found himself feeling vacant, his mind as elsewhere. His first encounter with a polar bear was playing over and over in his head. 

"I'd spotted him swimming across the fjord, which is probably forty miles wide. He was not fully grown yet, but he was quite far out, around fifteen miles off the coast. It was remarkable. I have a very blurry phone photo, but this is something I will never forget." 

Tormented by incessant thoughts running through their minds, they soon realised that Secret Atlas was the natural evolution from the expedition. "I think that, after that type of trip, you can't go back to normality," says Andy. 

Sharing a 40-day voyage in a matchbox-sized cabin with little to no privacy built a solid understanding between these two business partners. It was certainly a good compatibility test for them.

Michele says: "We spent three months in the same cabin, which was basically the size of the bunk, and there was no other room because the floor was full of kit – shotguns, drones, ice axes, you name it! And we never once fought; we didn't even come close." 

Andy and Michele's unquestionable passion, relentless grit, and determination have been the driving force behind the launch of one of the world’s most successful small ship expedition companies. Andy explains, "We wanted our Secret Atlas trips to be different. We want people to share the same experiences we've had." 

From the very start, they had set intentions to keep their expeditions small. They recognised the impact of their travels extended beyond environmental aspects, and in order for them to achieve an intimate, immersive, and sustainable experience, they had to prioritise small groups. 

Michele explains, "The only way to achieve this is to explore in a small group using local guides. It gives you much more flexibility, too. A cruise ship taking 300–500 people on an expedition is going to be very fixed with a scheduled itinerary. But when you go with us in a group size of 12, you open up many opportunities and an entirely different experience."

Andy says, “A big part of what makes Scoresbysund interesting is the people that live there – they are the spirit of the place and I have deep admiration for anyone who inhabits such a tough environment.” 

Their commitment to contributing to the local economy and enriching the community distinguishes them from other travel operators. By consciously choosing to work with locals, they prioritise not only the present but also the future of exploration. Such a stance is not merely important, but imperative. 

Their vision goes beyond purely business concerns. They have committed to creating meaningful connections, particularly in the realm of education, to provide new prospects for local communities in the lands they explore. Their focus is on making conscious decisions and valuing integrity over profit margins. 

When real people make real progress, working towards better travel experiences that benefit the environment, communities, and wildlife, we can all be excited for the future.