#12
A Journey from West to East Greenland

Delve deep into Secret Atlas Head of Operations, Product, and Sustainability Mariano Curiel’s epic trek across Greenland, a journey of adventure, perseverance, and hope as he crosses the world’s harshest terrain.

Some of you may be familiar with Mariano Curiel, Secret Atlas partner and Head of Operations, Product, and Sustainability, either from reading our newsletters or via our website. A lucky few of you may have personally explored the polar regions with him.

But what you probably didn't know is that Mariano was the first Argentine to ski across Greenland! It took 28 days, logging in approximately 320 miles, where he reached the highest part of the ice cap at around 3000m, carrying over 100kg of supplies in temperatures as low as -35 C. 

People have an innate affinity for statistics. They provide a quantified summary of the intensity of an endeavour, a direct comparison to past data you've logged in your mind, whilst marking a tangible achievement written in black and white saved in the records of history for all time. 

These numbers are for us, the audience, dreamers, and admirers, to help gauge the feasibility of our own goals, inspire us, and remind us that what might seem impossible today can become a reality tomorrow. 

But this is almost irrelevant for the explorers of our world, because the most meaningful learnings are often immeasurable, printed within our consciousness. 

How it all began

All passion must derive from a source of inspiration, and Mariano's fuel stemmed from the stories of historical explorers, with particular reverence for Nansen.

Numerous explorers have attempted and completed the quest to cross the Greenland ice cap as a rite of passage. But perhaps one of the most notable was the Arctic explorer and Nobel Prize winner Fridtjof Nansen. In 1888, Fridtjof Nansen led a team of six men on a groundbreaking expedition across the Greenland ice sheet, covering approximately 300 miles in two months from the east to the west coast. Nansen and his team achieved the first recorded crossing of Greenland, despite the brutal challenges, harsh weather, and somewhat limited supplies compared to what we have available today. 

This iconic journey not only showcased the feasibility of such a feat but also inspired future explorers. Nansen's innovative use of skis and sledges established him as a true pioneer in polar exploration. He was dropped off on one side of Greenland, while the ship continued to sail along the coast planning to pick Nansen and his team up on the other side. It was on the beaches of Greenland that Nansen made one of the first decisive actions of his life, which informed all of his future quests. He burned the small boats they used for landing to ensure they could not turn back and only go forward. This action alone shows that Nansen did not do things by half! Fram became Nansen's motto. It means to go forward in Norwegian, and it was this philosophy of life to keep going forward that became a word he lived by. His courageous act ensured no turning back, compelling the expedition to proceed and to complete their challenging journey across the ice-covered terrain. Such a symbolic and practical move underscored Nansen's commitment to exploration and his fearless approach to overcoming obstacles.

It turned out that after a successful crossing, Nansen and his team had missed their pickup on the other side and consequently had to overwinter in Greenland. There, Nansen developed the utmost admiration and respect for his hosts, the Inuit Greenlanders who took him in. They taught him much and gave him informational tools that he utilised to complete his future explorations with the secrets of their polar know-how. 

Mariano's crossing: a modern man's journey

After spending some time guiding in Antarctica, Mariano visited Greenland and "fell in love with the place." At this point, he deemed the idea of crossing Greenland on foot impossible. How would he do it? What did he need? Who would he go with? Questions towered before him, and this impossibility soon turned into a challenge. Why couldn't it be him?... Or, indeed you?

Step by step, he trained, taking part in expedition courses, and honing in on his already adept navigation skills. Still, it wasn't until 2015, after twelve years of earning experience guiding expeditions in Antarctica and the Arctic, that the possibility of crossing Greenland began to look achievable. It was at that stage in life when Mariano's wife, Loli Figueroa, polar specialist and expedition guide told him: "Go. If not now, when?" Offering that final push of support that everyone needs to feel complete before taking on a great endeavour.

The exploration of Greenland is just as iconic as sailing around Cape Horn or crossing the Equator. It captures the dreams of those who live and breathe adventure as they unravel the mysteries of our planet. Completing it is a self-appointed rite of passage that proves one's mettle. But this isn't a new feat, there's a kindred spirit among some of us who find discomfort in the median. Bound to venture afar, pushing the boundaries and learning more about the world and themselves is what they crave and the more extreme the endeavour, all the more rewarding. We can be sure Nansen shared this same spirit. 

Teamwork and companionship were necessities in making his expedition a reality. Mariano needed a partner, a companion, and it had to be someone he could trust. While working on an expedition ship, he met that person, and plans started to form, where they built a small team of 2 to make the crossing. Despite the successful assembly of the team, they faced a hurdle in securing the necessary permissions. In recent years, the number of fatalities prompted authorities to put measures in place, meaning without a permit, their dreams would not be possible… Needless to say, the rather grim statistics failed to deter their determination. Instead, they regarded this as a mere inconvenience and just another hurdle to overcome. 

Unromantically, due diligence and paperwork are the rather pragmatic reality of all great adventures, yet they understood that mundane tasks often amount to a successful mission. 

Everything was in place, on paper that is. Now they had to prepare their equipment and themselves, both mentally and physically. Three months should be enough time… right?

Despite the urgency, the pair planned well for the adventure ahead, carrying with them all the supplies they would need for the next month. Food, shelter, torches, toiletries, GPS, skis, medical supplies - the list goes on. The total weight amounted to a back-breaking 100kg each, which they would have to lug across the vast expanse of Greenland with no help or support, relying entirely upon themselves. In order to give themselves the best chance of reaching the finish line, they too, gained an extra 15kg in weight in preparation for the physical turmoil their bodies would endure. 

May 2016

Well rested, clean, prepped, and free from blisters and sores, they began their journey. Mariano didn't quite appreciate this basic luxury of his condition at that moment but he certainly would later in the throes of his adventure. The build-up, anticipation, and excitement were a driving force. Their minds had been busy with preparation, but now it was finally happening. The vast immensity of the ice cap lay before them, and for the first time, the challenge ahead felt overwhelming. 

The mind can be a saviour or a downfall. Doubt can be an overpowering force, but sometimes, it's the smallest things that bring just enough hope to keep moving forward. Mankind has always sought something to believe in, and this is indeed different for everyone. Maybe it's religion, karma, or spirituality, but what's commonly shared in these beliefs gives one hope. For many explorers and certainly the seafarers amongst us, nature provides omens and superstitions that cannot be ignored.

As doubt crept into Mariano's thoughts, a white-headed eagle swooped overhead, making its presence clear. He felt the downdraft from the huge expanse of its wings cool against his bare skin. The white-headed eagle is a good omen. It holds spiritual significance, conveying wisdom, guidance, and protection—this sign was enough. Putting one foot in front of the other, Mariano and his team would cross from West to East Greenland for a total of 28 days. 

One of the first hurdles the team faced was manoeuvring up and over a steep glacier face, which they refer to as the 'ice fall'. This was one of many tests of their physical strength and mental resilience. Upon reaching the top, satisfaction was short-lived as concerns about the volume of running water became apparent. Greenland had been in the midst of a record melt and it wasn't long before Mariano woke from his tent to find himself and the team surrounded by water. 

"It was a very dangerous environment to be in, and I'll explain why. The water you can see running like a stream over the ice is not such an issue. The danger lies in what's under the ice. You can be walking on what seems to be frozen ice but listening carefully, you can hear water flowing underneath your feet. We had one extremely serious situation when one of our team was pulled down into the stream after the ice broke beneath her. I had to move quick! I laid down on the ice and helped her out. Thankfully she was ok, and understandably in a little shock but continued hiking."

While Mariano's statement, 'helped her out,' may appear nonchalant, it echoes the demeanour of a true leader in the most unforgiving environments. Whether navigating treacherous seas or conquering daunting mountains, there's no room for drama. Pragmatic action, resilience, and determination are the defining traits that separate pioneers from the rest. 

The next day brought no relief. The terrain remained treacherous, forcing them to navigate around water and the hidden rivers below seemed to have multiplied overnight. A heart-stopping moment jolted Mariano into action. Glancing down, he saw splinters forming beneath him, spreading out like shards of glass from a shattered window. The ice was giving way beneath his feet. In a surreal moment that could have been lifted from a blockbuster movie, Mariano paused momentarily before stepping into action, his every step fracturing the ice further. He dragged his gear behind him, slowing his progress, but there was no time to stop. In cinematic fashion, you'd expect a frantic dash to safety, followed by a slow-motion leap to the shore, culminating in a close-up of relief washing over Mariano's face. But the reality was far harsher. As Mariano glanced back, he saw the ice vanish, replaced by a wash of water in its wake—a narrow escape from disaster.

Close calls like this provide a stark reminder of life's fragility and the value of every moment. Yet, there's no room for dwelling on “what-ifs or idle chatter. It's about dusting yourself off and pressing onward, fuelled by gratitude for the chance to continue the journey.

Quickly the landscape opened up, bearing its overpowering white cloak that seemed to expand forever - it was surreal. Mariano describes it best: 'It's like being on the inside of a ping-pong ball". Over twenty-six days, he crossed hundreds of streams, explored an abandoned Cold War bunker, reached a summit of over 3000m, endured injuries to the ligaments in his leg and marched on regardless. Gale-force winds tried their best to steal their shelter and survival supplies, but he escaped with losing no more than the toilet roll… which doesn't sound too bad, though you must remember he only carried the bare supplies and for sure would be caught short!

Mother Nature flaunted all her sides, good and bad. Gifting sunshine, stillness and purity in contrast to the wet, wild, bleak and incessant noise of the cold, merciless winds. Often the ice sheet beneath their very feet roared; it was as though Mariano was walking within a war zone; the sounds presented a constant reminder of the sheer power of Nature that lorded power over them. In truth, like many challenges in life, it's not the preparation, tools, skills or even physicality that are the toughest obstacles to overcome. It boils down to our mental strength. Any length of time in the wild rewires how we think and feel. Leaving our comforts makes us vulnerable, and there can be nothing more lonely, frightening and equally rewarding and satisfying than stepping out into the wilderness. It's simply you, and the world, but the trade-off is that you feel fully alive in ways that can't be easily put into words.

Relentless battering winds, cold, sodden and sore feet, tired legs and aching back muscles can be equally as challenging as the white-outs that last for days. Rarely, the weather provided clarity and beauty beyond words. Those moments seemed to Mariano to be an expression of Nature's munificence. As Mariano reflected:  "One of the first images I recall was the sun stunningly low on the horizon above the ice cap. The sky glowed orange, while light blue and pink danced across the ice as the water melted in a myriad of pools. At that moment, there was no wind; everything was quiet. It was ethereal. But then besides that, when the peaceful morning ended and clouds flew overhead, it felt like nothingness except for ice and streams. There's nothing much to see. I felt as if I was captured within the same white walls day after day. Today was the same as yesterday, and the same as tomorrow. I trained myself to define what to think during every next hour of marching. This was to keep focus and put my mind in the right place, avoiding falling into dark places, keeping my own demons at bay."  

There was light and ocean at the end of the Greenland white-out tunnel for Mariano and his complement of expedition partners. He learned that managing the mind was the most crucial aspect of his endeavours. 

The finish line 

Drawing closer to the end of a difficult expedition, one might envision family waving wildly at the finish line, the press clicking their cameras incessantly and a roar of crowds echoing the excitement and acknowledgement of the amazing feat now complete. One longs for the hug and touch of family, a wife and children far cleaner and softer than themselves. The excitement of knowing that  'you did it', there is the anticipation that for the first time, you might feel some sort of relief. This is how most experience major accomplishments, but this isn't how the completion of his expedition stacked up for Mariano and his team.  

They checked the GPS coordinates and took another step, crossing their imaginary finish line. Nothing new was in their sights, and no one was there to recognise them. They couldn't rest in the arms of friends or family yet, because their journey wasn't over. They still had to make it back to the closest town to rest.  Mariano said, "in the end, the only thought I had was for a warm bed, shower and food." 

Upon arrival, they sat down and "ate like animals." Mariano paused to look up, only to find the entire restaurant had shifted to the other side of the room to avoid their smell. But it didn't matter. It didn't matter if there was no celebration for their arrival, or if their accomplishments hadn't yet been recognised. This crossing wasn't about that. It wasn't about the kudos, or the physical strength or something to add to his resume. It was about hard conversations, discipline and getting uncomfortable. On the ice-cap, the simplicity of life and emotions are revealed, you can glimpse the true nature of your inner workings - for some it might be thought of as the soul of man. 

When vulnerable on a challenging expedition, or, in fact, spending any length of time in the wild, we learn new things about ourselves and gain the power to change how we deal with difficult situations. Simply put, it all boils down to the basics and how you handle yourself. Mariano forced himself to stop every hour, to think, to refocus. At the completion of his Greenland crossing, Mariano reported that he felt the "most spiritual and focused" than he'd ever been. By stepping outward, Mariano’s mind and heart turned inward, navigating an extreme adventure within. His Greenland expedition permitted him to explore a modern-day iconic “hero's journey” as vast and as deep as any mythological character from the Odyssey. 

As one might expect, Mariano did get the commendation he deserved from his friends and family and a solid reputation amongst his fellow polar explorers. It's not the event itself that's impressive but how you complete it. He notes: “Managing the mind was the most crucial aspect of my endeavours, unveiling emotions and learnings that cannot be measured in numbers.”

The Argentinian press were quick to pick up on his story when he arrived back home, where he was bestowed the record title of 'First Argentinian to cross Greenland' and awarded Sportsman of the Year at his alpine club in Bariloche. 

Mariano says, “I'd never thought about this endeavour in relation to a record. It made my Grandma proud when I shared the cover of the most important newspaper in Argentina with news from the Pope, Brexit, and Lionel Messi. At the bottom right, there was a mention of me, and she kept this on her wall.” 

We at Secret Atlas are all explorers and invite you, our readers, to join us on our expeditions to the polar regions. Mariano’s heart for Greenland is the inspiration and driving force behind the meticulously crafted itineraries of our Greenland Expedition Micro Cruises.