Smeerenburg | The Origins of the First Oil Rush in the Arctic

The Arctic may be known for its breathtaking wilderness, but it also harbors a dark chapter in human history: the birth of the first oil rush. Long before the modern oil industry emerged, Smeerenburg, a Dutch whaling station in the early 17th century, played a pivotal role in fueling the industrial revolution’s insatiable thirst for whale oil. This quest for whale oil—vital for lighting lamps and lubricating machinery—marks a forgotten prelude to the modern oil era. In this article, we’ll take you through the history of Smeerenburg, revealing how it became an iconic site in the Arctic’s history of resource exploitation.

Once the centre of Dutch whaling operations, Smeerenburg became the mythical “Blubber Town” bustling with boisterous activities. While the romanticized visions of the settlement are one reason that draws the Arctic cruises to it, the beauty of the landscape is equally enticing. 

A journey to the untamed Arctic wilderness around Svalbard is as close as you can get to the end of the world. Smeerenburg is one remarkable stop in this journey that provides an insight into the history of this fascinating land.

Where is Smeerenburg?

In the first half of the 17th century, Smeerenburg was a whaling station, one of Europe's northernmost outposts. The location of the settlement was on Amsterdam Island in northwest Svalbard, close to the largest island in the area, Spitsbergen. Amsterdam Island has a land area of 16.8 square kilometres and was later renamed Smeerenburg.

The island is mostly covered by barren rocky plateaux with some lowlands that turn muddy in summer. The setting is nothing short of spectacular with fjords, rugged mountains, and sweeping glaciers.

The discovery of Svalbard: Willem Barents and the dutch exploration

Smeerenburg’s significance is rooted in its discovery by Willem Barents, a Dutch explorer whose voyages to the Arctic in the late 16th century laid the groundwork for the whaling industry in the region. In 1596, Barents became the first recorded European to reach the Svalbard archipelago, mapping parts of the islands that would later be critical for whaling operations.

Though Barents himself did not establish Smeerenburg, his expeditions were pivotal in the Dutch domination of Arctic exploration. Barents’ detailed observations of the Arctic environment and his exploration of Spitsbergen helped position the Dutch East India Company to capitalize on the area's potential for whale hunting. This laid the foundation for future whaling settlements like Smeerenburg, where the Dutch would later engage in the first industrial-scale oil extraction from whales.

Barents’ discoveries led to a surge of interest in the Arctic by European nations, with the Dutch being the first to establish permanent outposts, particularly for whaling. Smeerenburg, established in 1614, became one of the first whaling stations in the region, marking the beginning of the first oil rush—whale oil, an essential resource for lighting lamps and lubricating machinery during the Industrial Revolution.

The rise of Smeerenburg: The first oil rush

In the early 1600s, the industrial world was in the midst of the first oil rush—whale oil. This highly valuable substance was extracted from the blubber of whales and used for lighting, lubrication, and even as a base for cosmetics. The Dutch, with their maritime prowess, were among the first to capitalize on this resource.

The establishment of Smeerenburg came at a time when European demand for whale oil skyrocketed. The Dutch, under the leadership of the Dutch East India Company, developed this northern outpost into a thriving whaling station. It wasn’t long before the settlement expanded, with whalers cutting up the whale carcasses, extracting oil, and shipping it back to Europe. The extraction process was brutal—whales were hunted to near extinction, and entire communities of men labored in harsh conditions to harvest the blubber.

In 1630, it was occupied by around 200 men and even had a fort with guns. The big advantage of Smeerenburg as a station was a hill that was the perfect lookout post for whales. 

Once caught, the giant whale carcasses were cut open by the workers to bring out the blubber. This was then cut into small pieces and boiled in iron ovens to extract the oil. The task was arduous and the weather conditions made it even more difficult. Over the years the metal kettles or ovens were transformed into large structures with brick foundations and chimneys to improve efficiency.

The glory days of the desolate settlement did not last for long. By the mid-1640 bowhead whales had become scarce and the activities at the station came to a stop. By 1660, the abandoned station was a ghost town.

Even after its desertion, Smeerenberg retained its mythical status. The credit for that goes to multiple authors and explorers who described it as a bustling metropolis. In reality, these colourful stories of its grandeur - some accounts even mentioned that it had a population of over 12,000 residents - were highly exaggerated.

Wildlife in Smeerenburg

Harbour seals are commonly found on beaches near Smeerenburg, especially during periods of low tide. Groups of walruses can be found on the beach. Make sure to follow safety instructions while photographing walruses. For the best shots, we suggest getting low to an eye level with the animal.

Birds like the red-necked phalarope, little auks, black-legged kittiwake and the great northern diver are seen near the settlement. The period between May and September is also a good time for whale watching around the island. Humpback, minke, blue, and fin whales are some common species that can be found.

Climate

Since Svalbard lies within the Arctic Circle, the icy dark winter lasts around 6 months. The winter temperatures can go below −20°C. 

In summer, Svalbard experiences a period of 24-hour daylight between May and September. 

The land and the sea start freeing themselves from the ice grips of the cold and July is the warmest month with temperatures ranging between 3 - 7 °C.

The clash between various air layers results in windy weather for most months of the year. In summer fog can be a common occurrence around Smeerenburg. The harsh climate and the layer of permafrost on the ground do not allow the growth of vegetation on the island. Mosses and lichens are the common growths on the ground.

In the past few decades, the average temperatures in Smeerenburg have risen by a few degrees - call it the effects of global warming. This has resulted in the melting of the permafrost from the surface. 

Current remains of smeerenburg

Presently, the legendary Blubber Town is far from its prime days. It is a part of Norway’s Nordvest-Spitsbergen National Park and a popular stop for Arctic travellers.

There is hardly any trace of the building and you will find broken pieces of timber and whale bones near the shoreline. In fact, all useful material was stripped off from the outpost when it was abandoned. 

The remains of the blubber ovens with the marks of their circular foundations can still be seen. You may find a walrus family relaxing over the remains of an oven. 

Archaeologists have also found 101 whaler’s graves in the areas around Smeerenburg, a sign of the hard life that the men led. The graves include that of “The Seven” - a group of seven sailors who died during a wintering attempt in the settlement in 1634-35. 

Due to the loss of permafrost, the century-old graves that were preserved by the frozen ground have started showing signs of decay.

Planning your trip to Svalbard

The remoteness and sparse population have left much of the Arctic landscape untouched and exploring the terrain through conventional methods is not possible. So, accessing remote locations beyond Svalbard is possible only by a cruise ship. 

To embark on this off-the-grid journey to Svalbard and beyond, one has to adopt the spirit of adventure. It is not unusual for the weather to take a sudden turn resulting in unpredictable conditions and sudden changes in itineraries. Being flexible and embracing the unexpected is a big part of an Arctic adventure.

Depending on the season that you have chosen for the visit, make sure to pack for the weather. Even between June and July - a period of 24 hours of daylight - the temperatures will remain on the cooler side.

For a true expedition into the Arctic wilderness, pick a cruise guided by veteran expedition leaders. This is why a Small Ship Expedition can be the best way to feel the magnificence of nature around Svalbard.

Visit Smeerenburg with Secret Atlas

A journey to Svalbard and Smeerenburg with Secret Atlas is a potentially life-changing experience amidst epic landscapes. From the emotions of the first polar bear encounter to the jaw-dropping moments of witnessing majestic glaciers, this is a voyage that will invoke a sense of wonder in you like never before.

While we can’t control the uncertainties of the Arctic weather, we are deeply committed to sustainability and safety. With a small group of just 12 like-minded guests in a modern expedition ship, our cruises ensure minimum impact on the Arctic environment. 

For more details on our upcoming cruises, get in touch.