Sermilik Fjord | Where Greenland's Glaciers Meet the Sea
For a photographer, venturing into the Sermilik Fjord is like being a child in a candy store. With so much splendour around you, it is hard to figure out where to point the camera.
Sermilik is not just an awe-inspiring destination for nature lovers like other Greenland fjords, but also a hotbed of scientific activity, attracting glaciologists and climatologists from all over the globe. As the Arctic gets impacted by climate change, the Sermilik fjord might provide us with vital data related to sea level rise.
Meaning behind the name “Sermilik”
In Greenlandic, the name 'Sermilik' means 'place with glaciers'. In Danish, it is termed as the Egede og Rothes Fjord. With towering icebergs floating in the fjord, no wonder it is termed the ‘iceberg highway’.
A brief history of Sermilik Fjord
Gustav Frederik Holm, a Danish naval officer, led a Danish expedition to East Greenland in 1884–85. He spent the winter in the Eskimo settlement, Angmagssalik, observing the cultures of the Inuit. This was the settlement’s first connection with Europeans.
Gustav noted that Inuits, especially the hunters, have the exceptional ability to carve the details of a complicated coastline on pieces of driftwood with great accuracy. These elegant wooden carvings worked as maps for navigating the fjords, and Gustav used them to map the area around Sermilik Fjord.
In his work, Gustav describes the coastline between 66°N to 68 ½°N based on these carved pieces. Later studies have proved his observations to be fairly accurate.
In 1933, Danish polar explorer Knud Rasmussen made detailed observations of the glaciers in the area. The University of Copenhagen built the Sermilik Research Station on Ammassalik Island in the 1970s to conduct year-round research.
Glaciers that feed Sermilik Fjord
The ice wall at the backdrop of Sermilik fjord stretches for 2,400 kilometres; a massive ice sheet that has remained frozen for millions of years. There are three glaciers that feed the fjord. Perhaps unsurprisingly, the names of all three are derived from Norse mythology.
Helheim
Located on the eastern side of the Greenland ice sheet, the Helheim glacier is named after the realm of the dead ruled by the Norse Goddess Hel, daughter of Loki. Helheim was believed to be the realm of the dead who did not die heroically — a cold, silent place far from the world of the living.
Like its namesake, the glacier commands awe with its vast, unyielding presence. It is the largest glacier feeding the fjord and is over 6 kilometres in width. The Helheim glacier has a terminus-driven flow pattern, which responds to ocean conditions. However, the glacier has undergone significant changes in recent years - it receded by more than 2 kilometres, and thinned by more than 100 metres, its retreat as inevitable as the fate of souls bound for Helheim. The flow rate of the glacier has also increased dramatically, rising to over 12 kilometres per year. In the summer of 2023, it lost almost 2.4 kilometres of ice in a single massive calving event.
Fenris
The Fenris Glacier is named after the legendary wolf (Fenrir) of Norse mythology. Fenrir, the son of Loki, was feared by the gods for his strength. The gods tricked him into magical chains but he was destined to break free during Ragnarok and devour Odin.
The glacier originates from the Gaule Bjerg mountain and flows southward. Unlike the Helheim glacier, this glacier has a runoff-adapting ice flow pattern. This means that it adopts a water system based on the melting of ice — as if biding its time, adapting to its constraints before unleashing its energy.
Midgard
The Midgard Glacier takes its name from Midgard, the 'middle realm' of humans in Norse cosmology (one of the nine worlds), suspended between the divine Asgard and the underworld of Helheim. Midgard was created from the body of the giant Ymir, shaped from his flesh, blood, and bones — a place of life and struggle, balanced between forces of creation and destruction.
Flowing from the eastern side of the Fenris Glacier, Midgard Glacier mirrors this sense of fragility. Over the past decade, it has retreated around 16 kilometres and split into two branches near the fjord, a poignant reminder of the vulnerability of the world it is named after.
How to access Sermilik Fjord
Sermilik fjord is not easily reachable as there are no roads leading along Greenland’s rugged coastline. The best way to approach the fjord system is by boat or helicopter. A more challenging, but rewarding option is a multi-day hike along the coastline and through remote valleys to the spectacular surroundings of the fjord.
The popular way to visit Sermilik fjord is to take a flight to the settlement of Kulusuk in Greenland. From here, you can board an expedition ship that will take you to Tasiilaq. Next, you can venture into the Sermilik fjord and spend a few days exploring the area. However, the exact route will depend on the local weather conditions.
Short helicopter tours of the fjord are also possible. A helicopter tour of the fjord and its surrounding areas from Qaqortoq heliport will take around 2.5 to 3 hours.
When to visit Sermilik Fjord
Just like other fjords of Greenland, the best time to visit the fjord is during the short Arctic summer, from late June to August. The long periods of daylight in summer allow photographers to take advantage of the light conditions.
The autumn months of September and October are great for watching the aurora dance across the Arctic sky. Visiting during autumn allows you to avoid the peak season crowds, but the weather can get even more uncertain in this period.
Wildlife in and around the Fjord
The area around the fjord is home to various seal species and a variety of seabirds. Birds like gulls, fulmar, eiders, Brünnich's guillemot, Arctic skuas, and Arctic terns can be observed. Hiking in the valleys also allows you to spot butterflies and unique species like the rock ptarmigan. You can also scout for humpback and fin whales in the waters.
Photography and filmmaking in Sermilik
The breathtaking landscapes of the fjord make it a great location for Arctic photography and filmmaking. Our photography guides mention how the combination of the towering mountain ranges, crystal clear waters, and the majestic glaciers adds drama and texture to the images. You can capture the raw natural beauty by framing panoramic wide-angle shots or by zooming in on the play of light on the intricate iceberg geometry.
The role of Sermilik Fjord in climate research
Greenland lies further away from the cold influence of the North Pole, making it more vulnerable to the melting effects of a warming ocean. Studies point out that the glaciers around Sermilik are depositing ice into the ocean at a faster rate. This means that the amount of ice being accumulated is less than the ice being lost.
Research suggests that the warm Atlantic water entering the fjord is responsible for rapid glacial melting. Studying these glaciers is crucial for understanding the dynamics of the receding ice sheet of Greenland and the corresponding sea level rise.
Scientists are using sensors embedded deep into the fjord, along with other devices, to understand the impact of the warming waters of the Atlantic Ocean on the retreat of the Helheim glacier. The collected data is studied through advanced computational models of glacial fracturing for generating a complete picture.
Navigating the ice: challenges of travel in Sermilik Fjord
Even in the right season, reaching Sermilik Fjord remains an uncertainty. Sometimes chunks of ice get blown into the fjord by the wind and the tides. Besides, ice calving from the glaciers keeps drifting towards the ocean. This results in jamming of the surface and making the fjord impassable for ships.
While these are not towering icebergs, even small to medium-sized ice pieces can be as large as a car or a house. Moreover, the wind can pick up at short notice, resulting in large breakers. So, be prepared for weather uncertainties and sudden changes in the itinerary while planning a journey to Sermilik Fjord.
Whether you come for the science, the solitude, or the spectacle, Sermilik offers a glimpse into a fast-changing Arctic — one both majestic and fragile.
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